Café Crem

Art, Music and Words around The Coffee Table

Agua Amarga – The sweet taste of bitter water – 3 –

The obligatory morning coffee - a Manchada - the safest bet in a Spanish cafe

We’d already decided what to do for our final full day’s excursion, having attacked both headlands. When we’d climbed the first one, we’d noticed a path that wound its way across the top of the hills way into the distance, so we planned to follow that for a few miles, perhaps then making for the main road and coming back on more forgiving tarmac.  But first, my regular trip to the Cafe while Miki sketched some more. You can check out some of her Agua Amarga sketches HERE.

The weather was still picture perfect, and I also got a bit more sunbathing in before our walk. We followed the path which we’d come down two days previously, and then headed out across the hills. Earlier on the beach, although it was sunny, I’d been ‘sandblasted’ a bit, so I knew it was going to be windy, but high up on the exposed hilltop, it was enough to take your breath away!  Quite exciting, but I think Miki was having trouble keeping her feet on the ground!

Miki against the wind.....

As we made our way along the rough hewn  pathways, we saw in the distance what seemed like an enclosed bay, and we managed to find a path that led us down into the valley and towards it. What we discovered was a beautiful unspoilt beach and the most fabulous rock formations. (We also discovered a couple scrambling to get their clothes on – apologies for spoiling your ‘from here to eternity’ moment, if you’re reading this!)

Tales of Topographic oceans, anyone?

Once again, I was reminded of the fabulous album cover art of Roger Dean, particularly his YES album covers.  It was quite breathtaking. We tried in vain to scale the rocks to come down onto yet another bay, separated from us by water, but we thought better of it! The couple having departed, we now had this idyll to ourselves, it was truly amazing.

Wild beauty

Reluctantly leaving this place behind, we headed further on, paralleling the coast, but behind the hills that met the sea, hoping to find a way back to another cove. But when we achieved a vantage point to see the coastline once again, it was clear it had curved away from us, and a sign on the path marked peligro -danger , made our minds up to circle round and head homewards.

Not far now.....Miki sets the pace.

On the way we discovered a strange building. Huge, incomplete, and not really that old, it was stuck out in the middle of nowhere. From its layout, we could only surmise that it was to have been a hotel, or perhaps a residential riding school.  We were in the middle of a National park, but unscrupulous developers in Spain think nothing of greasing the palms of some corrupt official (of which there are plenty) -usually with Russian mafia money – and blunder on building whatever the hell they like in a protected area.  There is a hotel on the coast between here and where we live that has been the subject of Greenpeace action for just this reason. Now, I’m not a flag waving hippy activist, but this brazen disregard for the law and spoiling of protected areas is unconscionable in my book.

Incomplete, abandoned, and a bloody eyesore.

Clearly, somewhere down the line, this project was simply abandoned. The investors prevented from fulfilling their scheme, but blighting the countryside nonetheless. We managed to find a different path across the hills to head back to the Boomobile, and, after the longest hike of the three days, chilled out for the evening with a Woody Allen movie.

"I thought you said it was around the next bend?...."

Agua Amarga had been a revelation, and had given me a new appreciation for our immediate environment. The coast line where we live is full of wonderful surprises, and we are incredibly lucky to live in this part of the world. needless to say, we’ll be going on a few more ‘local’ trips over the coming months! Tomorrow, I’ll conclude this series with a few more Agua Amarga views.

"It's nice 'ere, innit?"

Kev Moore


June 16, 2010 - Posted by | Art, coffee, fun, life, photography, travel, writing | , , , , ,

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