Café Crem

Art, Music and Words around The Coffee Table

Agua Amarga – The sweet taste of bitter water – 1 –

This view looking out towards Carboneras was just begging to be sketched...

To the casual observer, it might seem that we go on holiday a lot. But, in truth, these trips have more to do with a creative wellspring for Miki and a breath of fresh air for me than anything else. When we’re home, we’re really home, barely venturing out except for our daily swim, Miki hard at work producing pieces of art and me locked away in the studio. So every now and again it becomes necessary to escape these confines and stretch our wings. Our most recent trip was just an hour down the coast, to a  little village called Agua Amarga.  The beauty of living here is the proximity of so many lovely places where you can escape ‘on holiday’, only a short hop from home, yet feel you are completely removed – it’s great. This trip in particular brought home to us just how wildly beautiful our coastline is here on the Costa Almeria, and the Cabo de Gata Nijar in particular. The drive along the coast road through this Spanish National park is always breathtaking, no matter how often we do it. We stopped for coffee and the chance for Miki to sketch.

Since our last visit here, for just a few hours on the way back from Portugal,  Motorhomes had been prohibited in the village itself. No complaints there, as the streets are undeniably narrow and not really designed for the likes of the Boomobile. The Ramblas at the end of the village however, opening directly onto the beach, was the perfect spot, and several others had the same idea.

Sharing the Ramblas with several others

We got installed and then set out to explore. Agua Amarga boasts a beautiful beach, conveniently enclosed at both sides by striking rock formations jutting out into the sea, and looming high on either side. The village takes its name from the quality of the water in the wells here. Suffice to say, we had brought our own bottled variety from home!

Small, compact dwelling with sea views

We decided to go climbing, and discovered the remains of some old cave dwellings halfway up the cliff. Not satisfied with that, we climbed ever higher, exploring the headland and eventually coming out on the ridge, where an old concrete gun placement still stood sentinel across the ocean.

The cave dwellings and rock formations looked like they'd jumped straight out of a Roger Dean album cover

We saw a weather-beaten path snaking across the ridge, and we followed it for some time, eventually linking up with a recognizable trail heading back down to the main road.

Ill-advised assault on the North Face....

As the trail petered out halfway down the hill , giving way to a wider track, we discovered a half-parked, half-hidden 4×4 with a Tarbes (Miki’s hometown, where we had been some weeks previously) numberplate. Small world!  It was strange to find it there and we wondered about it for several days, having nothing better to do!

The effort to reach the top was well worth it....

The ramble/climb was fantastic, under fantastic sunshine, and we enjoyed it a lot as an alternative to swimming. Later that afternoon, Miki began her sketches while I went onto the beach and sunbathed, listening to my ipod, like a proper holidaymaker!

Miki finds the trail home

Looking out of the Boomobile that evening, our gaze alighted on the even higher headland that rose from the other end of the beach. We had a plan for tomorrow!

Kev Moore


June 14, 2010 - Posted by | Art, fun, life, nature, photography, travel, writing | , , , ,


  1. Gorgeous views!

    Comment by shelleymhouse | June 14, 2010

  2. Nicole says she really likes these ocean views.

    Comment by shelleymhouse | June 14, 2010

  3. As I said in the post – we really found a new appreciation of how wild and beautiful our coastline is. Glad Nicole likes the views – more coming!

    Comment by kevmoore | June 14, 2010

  4. Absolutely breathtaking! I’m sure all the sights were inspiring, no? 🙂

    Comment by asrai7 | June 15, 2010

  5. Very much so – it was truly beautiful there!

    Comment by kevmoore | June 15, 2010

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